Test Data of Arbutin for Skin Whitening Plamed Group

3月 30, 2021Cosmetic ingredients

Arbutin is a tyrosinase inhibitor; it can suppress the production of melanin and keep skin white. We collect authoritative test data to prove arbutin’s skin whitening effect.

1. Test of Arbutin on Human Melanocyte Tyrosinase Activity

Shiseido published an article in The Journal of Pharmacology and Experimental Therapeutics in 1995. It showed 4 whitening ingredients on tyrosinase activity in human melanocytes. From the following Figure 1, we can see the inhibitory effects of hydroquinone is the strongest, followed by arbutin, kojic acid and L-ascorbic acid.

Figure 1. Inhibitory effects of hydroquinone, arbutin, kojic acid and L-ascorbic acid on tyrosinase activity in human melanocytes

For the inhibitory tyrosinase activity of mouse melanoma cells, α-arbutin is 10 times that of β-arbutin. (Seen in Figure 2.)

Figure 2.

For the inhibitory activity of human melanoma cells, the half-inhibitory concentration (IC50 value) of α-arbutin is about 15 times that of β-arbutin. (Seen in Figure 3.)

Figure 3. Effect of α-Arbutin, Arbutin, β-Ab-α-G1 and β-Ab-α-G2 on Human Tyrosinase

2. B16 Melanoma Cell Test of Arbutin

Arbutin has a significant inhibitory effect on the proliferation of melanocytes. It can inhibit synthesis of melanin in the cells (P<0.01), and presents a good dose-effect relationship (Shown in Figure 4, 5). However, Arbutin does not inhibit the activity of tyrosinase obviously (P<0.01) when tyrosinase activity in melanocytes showed fluctuating changes (Shown in Figure 6).

Figure 4. Inhibition Rate of Arbutin on Cell Proliferation

Figure 5. Effect of Arbutin on Melanin Content

Figure 6. Effect of Arbutin on Tyrosinase in Melanocytes

3. α-Arbutin on Tyrosinase Monophenolase Test

The effect of α-arbutin on monophenolase activity is as follows: reducing the steady-state activity of mushroom tyrosinase and prolonging the lag time of the enzyme-catalyzed reaction (Seen in figure 7, 8).

Figure 7. Progressive Curve for Inhibition of Monophenolase of Mushroom Tyrosinase by Arbutin

Curves 1-6 is concentration of arbutin: 0, 40, 80, 120, 140, 160 μmol/L

Figure 8. Effect of Arbutin on the Steady-state Activity 1 and the Lag Time 2 of Monophenolase of Mushroom Tyrosinase

4. α-Arbutin on Tyrosinase Diphenolase Test

The activation of diphenolase by α-arbutin is shown as a mixed activation of competitive and non-competitive. α-Arbutin for skin whitening is mainly manifested as a strong inhibitory effect on monophenolase. The activation effect of α-arbutin on diphenolase allows it to be used as a hair darkening agent in the shampoo, when used with dopa.

Figure 9. The Reaction Process Curve of α–Arbutin to Diphenolase Activation. 1, 2, 3 is α-Arbutin Concentration in 0, 5, 10 mmol/L.

Figure 10. Relation Curve of α–Arbutin on Diphenolase Activation rate and α–Arbutin Concentration

5. The Skin Whitening Effect of α-Arbutin on Liver Spot

The study involved 26 women (40-65 years old) with liver spot on their face. They used 2% arbutin cream twice a day for 3 months. The results showed that: 53.7% of women who used α-arbutin improved or markedly improved in liver spot, and 30.6% of women who used β-arbutin improved or significantly improved in liver spot.

Figure 11. Satisfaction Quotients Relating to the Evaluation of Liver Spot Reduction

6. Arbutin for Skin Whitening in the Treatment of Chloasma

Treatment group is treated by arbutin PVA mask; control group is treated by Vitc. The test result shows effective rate of treatment group is higher than that of control group.

Figure 12. Comparison of Therapeutic Effect Between Two Groups

Arbutin treat chloasma, compared with ellagic acid. The result indicates that the formulation contained with arbutin can significantly decrease the melanin level.

Figure 13. Compositions of the skin lightening formulation

Figure 14. Effect of F1(1% arbutin), F2(1% ellagic acid), F3(combination of plant extract and ellagic acid) formulations on melanin level (%)

Figure 15. Effect of F1, F2, F3 formulations on melanin level

7. Arbutin Combine with Licorice for Skin Whitening

The following figures indicate that mixtures of arbutin and oil soluble licorice extract has obvious skin whitening effect.

Figure 16. Inhibition of Tyrosinase Activity in B16 Melanoma Cells

Figure 17. Inhibition of Melanin Synthesis in B16 Melanoma Cells

8. Other Arbutin Benefits for Skin Care

Above all test results show that arbutin has a significant skin whitening effect. In addition, arbutin has benefits of anti-oxidation (seen in figure 17), anti-inflammation (seen in figure 18).

Figure 18. Time Courses of DPPH radical-(A) and ABTS scavenging (B) reaction of arbutin, hydroquinone and AA.

Figure 19. Effect of arbutin on contact dermatitis induced by oxazoldone in mice