Originally used in Lancôme products, pro-xylane is a patented ingredient developed by the L’Oréal Group and produced in its own factories. It is an ingredient derived from xylose that is found in large quantities in the beech tree, and have potent benefits for anti-aging in skin care products. As a xylose derivative with anti-ageing actives, pro-xylane benefits are the ability to promote the skin’s production of aminoglucosides, or glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), which are able to absorb moisture and make the cellular matrix meshwork more resilient, thus serving to improve cellular firmness, enhance the elasticity of the skin, and prevent the effects of aging.
Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, the active ingredient of pro-xylane, is a xylose derivative with anti-aging actives that promotes collagen synthesis for stronger and more elastic skin.
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In terms of the specific mechanism, it has two main effects: one is to stimulate the dermis to secrete GAGs on its own, and the other is to promote the secretion of collagen type IV and collagen type VII.
- Pro-Xylane Benefit to Promote Collagen Synthesis
Pro-xylane can play a role at the junction between the epidermis and the dermis of our skin, the DEJ (Dermal Epidermal Junction) linking structure, which affects skin problems such as elasticity and firmness. Collagen type VII, Collagen IV is quite important for this layer. Pro-xylane promotes the synthesis of this type collagen, which makes the epidermis and dermis fit more closely together, and the skin becomes firmer and more elastic.
The part between the epidermis and the dermis is called DEJ and is where collagen types IV and VII reside. Pro-xylane is able to up-regulate the deposition of key proteins of the true epidermal junction, such as collagen type IV, laminin-5 and collagen type VII. In addition, it up-regulates type I procollagen and fibrillin protein-1, which are key to maintaining skin elasticity and firmness.
- Pro-Xylane Benefit to Repair Rkin and Anti-Aging
As we age, the aging of our skin causes it to become increasingly difficult to produce large amounts of mucopolysaccharides in our skin’s extracellular matrix (ECM). Mucopolysaccharides are mostly glycopolymers (GAGs) consisting of glucuronic acid and aminosaccharides, which absorb water and play a role in preventing the loss of moisture from the skin.
What’s more, GAGs is one of the components of the extracellular matrix of the human body, has a strong hydrophilicity. It has the effect of promoting the healing of wounds, moisturising effect is remarkable. GAGs in turn promote the production of proteoglycans, which indirectly increases the production of dermal collagen, thus promoting dermal repair, improving skin elasticity and increasing skin firmness.
Pro-xylane stimulates the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), which serves to restore the function of the extracellular matrix, so that the ECM is always full and healthy.
- Other Pro-Xylane Benefits
Moreover, pro-xylane is a kind of ether, belongs to a kind of non-ionic surfactant, has good dispersing and emulsifying ability, can help other active ingredients enter into the skin like ethanol, and then be absorbed by the skin.
According to L’Oréal’s human experiment studies: just 3% pro-xylane can make a significant improvement in wrinkles, sagging, radiance and humidity of the face.
Five healthy women used a skin cream containing 10% pro-xylane twice daily for 12 weeks. Under transmission electron microscope (TEM), it was observed that the denser lamina with epidermis-dermis connection became more uniform and regular after using pro-xylane. Immunohistochemical results showed that Laminins-332 and 6 integrin subunits were significantly up-regulated. There was a significant increase in hyaluronic acid expression of CD44 in the epidermis treated with pro-xylane, compared to the skin areas treated with placebo. The experimental results show that pro-xylane can strengthen the DEJ basement membrane.
There are many anti-aging ingredients, but some of them may cause irritation to skin. However, pro-xylane is mild to skin, and has no irritation. And it has been used in may high-end skincare products for anti-aging.