Escin Benefits for Skin Care

8月 16, 2024Cosmetic ingredients

Escin, also known as aesculus chinensis extract, is obtained from the fruits the horse chestnut tree. According to the studies, it can promote microcirculation and maintains normal cellular metabolism by inhibiting collagenase and other enzymes that are closely related to the texture and integrity of the skin. Therefore, escin benefits for skin care is mainly in anti-inflammation, vasoprotective, and anti-aging.

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Escin benefits in anti-inflammation

Escin has been shown to have potent anti-inflammatory effects, particularly in the early stages of induced inflammation, and when taken orally also reduce ethanol absorption and show hypoglycaemic effects. Escin also has a positive therapeutic effect on the microvasculature and its surrounding connective tissue. Such tissues consist of cellular and fibrous components in a fluid matrix or extracellular matrix, which consists of proteoglycans and aminoglucans that provide support and cushioning for the vascular and fibrous tissues. One of the key components of this matrix substance is hyaluronic acid, a proteoglycan that gives the extracellular matrix its viscosity.

The activity of hyaluronidase, an enzyme that breaks down hyaluronic acid, reduces the viscosity of the matrix substance, thereby reducing its supportive and cushioning capacity. Another effect of this activity is an increase in fluid exchange between microvascular membranes as the integrity of the extracellular matrix is compromised and capillary resistance to fluid leakage is reduced (Fig. 5). Although this activity may be associated with pathogenic infections (e.g., Staphylococcus aureus secretes hyaluronidase, which allows the bacteria to move more freely through connective tissues), it has also been developed as a beneficial effect because injection of hyaluronidase prior to drug administration deliberately increases capillary permeability, thereby facilitating easier entry of therapeutic agents into the bloodstream. One hypothesis for the oedema symptoms associated with venous insufficiency is that hyaluronidase activity leads to increased capillary leakage. This hypothesis can be used to explain the beneficial effects of Horse chestnut extracts on venous insufficiency, as several components of these extracts have been shown to have anti-hyaluronidase activity.

Escin, a component of aesculus chinensis extract capable of inhibiting hyaluronidase activity. However, in the case of escin, the inhibition of hyaluronidase has been determined to be insufficient to account for the potent toxic properties of aesculus chinensis extract on the microvascular system. It has been suggested that inhibition of other enzymes, including collagenase, elastase, and β-glucuronidase, all of which are implicated in defining the integrity of the extravascular matrix, could explain why aesculus chinensis extract are apparently more potent than escin alone.

In 1980, the use of aesculus chinensis extract and escin in cosmetics was described as treating the following areas: scalp, mouth, face, body, hands, legs and feet, body hygiene, foot hygiene, personal hygiene. More recently, it has been reported that aesculus chinensis extract (or 0.25-0.5% (w/v)) of escin) has been included in a range of commercial products suitable for these areas, including shampoos, shower foams, bubble baths, creams, lotions and toothpastes. In the UK, aesculus chinensis seeds are listed on the General Marketing List of the Medicines Control Agency for external use only. In Germany, they are the subject of an active therapeutic monograph for venous insufficiency.

Figure. Escin benefits in anti-inflammation

Escin benefits in vasoprotective

The molecular mechanism of escin allows better access of ions to the channel and therefore improves venous tone conditions in vitro and in vivo. Other mechanisms such as release of PGF 2 from veins, antagonism of 5-HT and histamine, and reduction of tissue mucopolysaccharide catabolism. Escin has been studied for its ability to modulate vascular tone. It can improve circulation to the eye by affecting the smooth muscle cells in the vessel wall and adjusting the dilation and contraction of peripheral blood vessels. Regulating peripheral venous tone facilitates increased blood flow and reduces bruising and red blood in the eye. Included are other actions that promote a range of physiological effects, promoting vasodilation, increasing microcirculatory flow, and improving the availability of oxygen and nutrients. These effects help to improve blood flow in the area around the eyes and reduce the occurrence of problems in parts of the eye.

In a double-blind, randomised, single-dose clinical trial involving 70 subjects, a model of bruising was created by experimental destruction of blood vessels, followed by application of a cream containing 2% escin. The anti-inflammatory and vasoprotective effects of escin were assessed.

Figure. Escin benefits in vasoprotective

Escin benefits in anti-aging

Escin improves the contractility of the dermal part of the skin and thus influences the skin’s shape. It activates Rho kinase through Rho, which leads to the formation of actin and myosin, which in turn leads to the production of contractility in fibroblasts. Therefore, escin tightens the skin and improves wrinkles and other skin conditions, making the skin tight and elastic. Escin is proved to be a “powerful scavenger” of reactive oxygen species, absorbing superoxide anion almost 20 times more efficiently than ascorbic acid, a recognised antioxidant. Similarly, in in vitro experiments, escin reduced the release of hydroxyl radicals and singlet oxygen, showing a wide range of reactive oxygen scavenging properties. Since these oxygen species are associated with cellular damage and inflammation, their scavenging by cosmetic preparations containing escin has a high potential to alleviate damage to the skin, which may ultimately manifest itself as an anti-ageing effect. Escin also strongly protect fibroblasts from reactive oxygen species-induced damage in vitro.

Escin, as a multi-functional botanical ingredient extract, has shown remarkable activity in different aspects, including antioxidant, anti-inflammation and antibacterial. Escin benefits for skin care are especially in improving eye problems, such as dark circles, eye redness, eye bags and eye lines, it often becomes the focus of skincare attention.