Alpha-arbutin, derived from plants such as blueberries, bear berries, and cranberries, is a safe skin-lightening ingredient that helps reduce scars and pigmentation caused by acne and sun damage. It has many benefits for skin lightening.
1. Skin Lightening Mechanism of Alpha Arbutin
It has been shown that β-arbutin inhibits tyrosinase from mushroom and mouse melanoma by a non-competitive inhibition mechanism. However, alpha arbutin inhibits tyrosinase from melanoma only, and its mechanism is presumed to be a mixed inhibition.
In addition, the study showed that alpha arbutin’s skin lightening mechanism is mainly to inhibit monophenolic enzyme activity, to prevent tyrosinase from catalyzing the conversion of L-tyrosine to L-dopa. Moreover, it activates tyrosinase diphenolic enzyme, showing a competitive and non-competitive activation.
Figure. Mechanism of alpha arbutin for skin lightening
2. Alpha Arbutin Benefits for Skin
- Fades freckles and dark spots
As a stable water-soluble ingredient, alpha arbutin is safe to fade freckles and dark spots as well as hyperpigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase activity. It will not always bleach the skin; it whitens the skin by decelerating the production of melanin.
- Good for Treating Melasma
Melasma, also known as liver spots, is a yellowish-brown pigmentation on the face. It is most common in pregnant women, and the high level of estrogen in blood is the main reason. Being a skin-lightener, alpha arbutin can help to treat melasma by reducing its intensity
- Brightens Skin Tone
Alpha arbutin is effective to all skin types. It will not alter skin color, only fade uneven skin tones. It can brighten dark area of the skin, including pigmentation, sun damage, so that the skin tone becomes even and white.
3. Alpha ArbutinAdvantages for Skin Lightening
- Alpha Arbutin with High efficiency
The whitening and lightening effect of a-arbutin is the most outstanding and the best, which is nearly 15 times of β-arbutin. Not only that, it was found that a-arbutin has a better effect on scar improvement, and has better anti-inflammatory, skin repair and whitening effects.
- Alpha Arbutin Safety
Alpha arbutin inhibits the activity of tyrosinase at the very low concentration, and does not affect the growth of cells at the higher concentration. Also, it does not inhibit the growth of human cells. It will not harm the skin and is non-irritating.
- Alpha Arbutin Stability
Compared with β-arbutin, alpha arbutin is more stable and less susceptible to discoloration and degradation. β-arbutin can be hydrolyzed to hydroquinone by human epidermal microorganisms and β-glucosidase. The acidic environment and synthetic perspiration can promote the hydrolysis of β-arbutin by glucosidase. β-arbutin can be decomposed to produce hydroquinone when it is higher than 50℃ or under strong acidic and alkaline conditions.
- Other advantages
Alpha arbutin is stable to light, and heat. In other words, alpha arbutin is non-phototoxic and non-photoallergic. It will not cause skin irritation, is gentle on the skin within the proper concentration. It is reported that alpha arbutin is safe at the concentration of 2.0% in face products and 0.5% in body skincare.
4. Alpha Arbutin Uses for Skin Lightening
- Alpha arbutin’s pH value property is from 5.0 to 7.0. In the cosmetic formulation. It is recommended to use pH value is form 3.5 to 6.5.
- After the emulsification of cosmetic formula system is completed, cool it down to below 50°C, and add NaHSO3 and Na2SO3 (0.3-0.4%) dissolved in a small amount of water to help prevent discoloration.
- The penetration enhancer (azone) is added to cosmetic system to promote the absorption of alpha arbutin and prevent its precipitation.
- Alpha arbutin is suitable to be mixed with other skin-whitening ingredients, such as glabridin, nicotinamide, ethyl ascorbic acid, etc..
Alpha arbutin works as a potent skin-lightening cosmetic ingredient, and fades pigmentation and spots. Due to alpha arbutin’s benefits for skin lightening, it can be applied in many functional skincare product, including cream, essence, toner and lotion.