In dermatology, bakuchiol was first used in the treatment of acne, because it has antibacterial and bacteriostatic effects. Recent studies have confirmed that bakuchiol also has similar efficacy of retinol (a well-known anti-aging and lightening ingredient in cosmetics), but it is much tolerated than retinol. Therefore, Bakuchiol is a potent alternative to retinol in skincare. There are several Bakuchiol benefits for skin as followings.
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1. Skin Whitening Benefit of Bakuchiol
Bakuchiol has inhibitory effects on both monophenolase and diphenolase activity of tyrosinase. And the inhibitory effect on diphenolase shows a reversible inhibition. The study also compared Bakuchiol’s skin whitening benefit with Arbutin. It indicates that Bakuchiol has more significant inhibition on tyrosinase than Arbutin in the low concentration range.
2. Anti-aging Benefit of Bakuchiol
Bakuchiol can enhance the activity of human skin fibroblasts, and promote skin TIMP-2 increase and MMP-1 decrease, then reducing skin collagen decomposition, and promoting skin collagen synthesis. Thus Bakuchiol possesses anti-aging properties. Studies has proven Bakuchiol’s anti-aging and anti-oxidation benefits. The molecular signatures of retinol and bakuchiol through the volcano plot of a DNA micro-array. It displayed similar overall shape, indicating similar modulation of gene expression in the skin substitute model.
The study also compared collagen stimulatory effects of bakuchiol and retinol. Bakuchiol is more effective than retinol in stimulating collagen synthesis.
The cosmetics formulation containing bakuchiol can achieve an obvious improvement in skin problems, including fine lines, wrinkles, roughness, etc.
Bakuchiol is comparable with retinol in its ability to improve photoageing and is better tolerated than retinol.
3. Anti-inflammation and Anti-acne Benefit of Bakuchiol
The study has shown that bakuchiol can reduce the production of nitric oxide, prostaglandin 2, LTB4 (leukotriene B4) and TxB2 (thromboxane B2) to exert anti-inflammatory effect. It is able to control leukocytic functions such as eicosanoid production, migration, and degranulation in the inflammatory site.
Figure 10. Bakuchiol inhibits multiple sites in pro-inflammatory arachidonic acid pathway
This study also evidenced the impact of bakuchiol against erythema. It can protect skin from UV induced erythema with application of 1% bakuchiol lotion. (Pre-Irr is prior to irradiation/UV exposure and Post-Irr is following irradiation/UV exposure)
Figure 11. Reduction in Erythema Using 1% Bakuchiol Lotion
Also, bakuchiol has anti-bacterial properties. Bakuchiol exhibits excellent P.acnes inhibitory activity, and it is very effective in inhibiting other microorganisms such as Staphy lococcus and Candida. Bakuchiol can combine with salicylic acid to reduce acne.
Conclusion
Bakuchiol, derived from seeds of natural plant psoralen, is a potential active ingredient in beauty and skin care products. Above studies have shown bakuchiol benefits for skin, such as whitening, anti-aging, anti-inflammation and anti-acne. Particularly, bakuchiol overcomes the shortcomings of skin irritation and allergies easily caused by retinol. It has good stability, low side effects, and low skin irritation. Thus, bakuchiol can be used as a potential alternative to retinol.
Rae Wong
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