Ergothioneine is recognized as a safe food ingredient in Europe, the USA and Japan, and Ergothioneine has great benefits for application in the cosmetic field.

6月 28, 2023Cosmetic ingredients

Ergothioneine is one of the most popular active ingredients in the market today. As a unique antioxidant and cell protectant, ergothioneine has a variety of benefits in the cosmetic field, such as antioxidant, anti-ageing, anti-inflammation, whitening and sun protection.

Ergothioneine can be specifically transported and accumulated through the OCTN-1 transporter protein, especially in the mitochondria and nucleus, so it can accumulate and act in human tissues throughout the body, and has a wide range of applications in medicine, food, cosmetics and other fields. Ergothioneine is recognized as a safe food ingredient in Europe, the USA and Japan, and Ergothioneine has great benefits for application in the cosmetic field.

Why Ergothioneine have many benefits for skincare? Due to its potent anti-oxidation property.

More Ergothioneine information, please visit Ergothioneine Introduction.

Ergothioneine Benefits for Anti-oxidation

Ergothioneine is a water-soluble amino acid molecule that is transported to the desired site by a unique transporter protein, OCTN1, in cell membranes and mitochondrial membranes. Through the transporter protein OCTN1, ergothioneine can accumulate in keratinocytes and melanocytes to play it role in scavenging free radicals and protecting the mitochondria.

In 2007, Estée Lauder also published a study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology comparing ergothioneine with Idebenone and coenzyme Q10, well-known antioxidant ingredients. The results showed that ergothioneine was stronger than Coenzyme Q10 and Idebenone in scavenging free radicals and protecting cells from UV-induced reactive oxygen species.

In addition to its anti-oxidation property, ergothioneine also minimizes the formation of reactive oxygen species and protects cells from UVA radiation damage.

Ergothioneine Benefits for Sun-protection

Ergothioneine acts as a physiological filter for UV rays and is a very effective sunscreen ingredient. In the UV absorption range, ergothioneine has an absorption wavelength similar to that of DNA and a molar extinction coefficient of 1.4*104M-1cm-1λmax257, which significantly reduces the formation of reactive oxygen species and protects cells from radiation damage. In addition, skin irradiation by UVA in the ultraviolet can cause the expression of the stress signal TNF-α and increase the expression of the MMP-1 gene, thus destroying and breaking down human collagen and eventually forming photo-aging.

Figure. The difference between normal skin and photo-aged skin

Figure. Ergothioneine decreases the expression of the MMP-1 gene

The skin is exposed to a significant increase in ROS after sunlight UV exposure. As a result, cellular DNA, proteins and lipids are susceptible to stress response, oxidative damage, inflammation, photoaging and even photocarcinogenesis. In contrast, after-sun skin treated with ergothioneine resisted UV-induced oxidative stress and DNA was repaired in time.

Figure. Ergothioneine accumulated in skin cells inhibits UV ray-induced intracellular ROS production

Ergothioneine, when used in combination with other antioxidants, has a very good synergistic whitening effect and enhances the anti-ageing effect.

Ergothioneine Advantages for Skincare

Ergothioneine has many advantages for the application in cosmetics filed as below:

Natural: naturally occurring amino acids found in nature.
Targeted: an exclusive OCTN-1 transporter protein that targets the mitochondria and nuclei of inflammatory cells.
Ultra-potent: super antioxidant power.
Broad-spectrum: eliminates a broad spectrum of oxygen radicals.
Synergistic: able to stabilize vitamins and derivatives, astaxanthin, retinol and derivatives, etc.
Balanced: scavenging only the excess free radicals that damage the living organism, without affecting the function of normal free radicals.
Non-irritation: suitable for all types of formulations, no allergic reactions to all skin types.
Stable: good light stability without discolouration, good heat stability, good pH stability.

Also, some studies have shown that the addition of ergothioneine to cosmetics at the concentration of 0.01%-3% can achieve its skincare benefits. In a half-face double-blind test, the use of a lotion containing 0.5% ergothioneine for 4 weeks resulted in a 15% increase in moisture content and a 20% increase in elasticity. It proves that ergothioneine at a low concentrations has some skin care benefits.

Therefore, ergothioneine’s benefits in the cosmetics filed are mainly in form of anti-oxidation, post-sun repair, skin whitening, anti-ageing, cellular vitality and skin elasticity.

Ergothioneine Benefits in the Cosmetic Field