Cosmetic Formulators’ Favorite VC Derivative: Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
In 1989, Marazen, a researcher of Japanese Skin Research Institute, discovered and extracted Glabridin from Glycyrrhiza glabra. Only 100g glabridin powder could be extracted from 1000kg Glycyrrhiza glabra. Glabridin powder’s skin benefits in cosmetics makes it a king of skin-lightening.
The hydrophobic part of licorice extract contains a variety of flavonoids. Glabridin, as the main component of its hydrophobic part, has an inhibitory effect on melanin production, and also has anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties. Experimental data shows that the whitening effect of Glabridin powder is 232 times that of ordinary vitamin C, 16 times that of hydroquinone, and 1164 times that of arbutin.
Glabridin Powder Skin Benefits for Whitening and Lightening
As we all know, Glabridin powder is a potent cosmetic ingredient for skin whitening and skin lightening. In terms of how to achieve a stronger whitening function, there are three different ways.
1. Glabridin Powder Inhibits Melanin Synthesis
The main whitening mechanism of Glabridin powder is to competitively inhibit tyrosinase activity, taking part of the tyrosinase away from the catalytic loop of melanin synthesis, preventing the binding of the substrate and tyrosinase, thereby inhibiting melanin synthesis.
Human experiments show that Glabridin can effectively whiten and brighten skin tone. A clinical trials conducted by human show that after 56 days topical uses of glabridin, there are significant lightness increase and redness decrease on the face skin.
2. Glabridin Powder for Anti-oxidation
Glabridin powder itself has a good antioxidant effect. Experiments have shown that it has the ability to scavenge oxygen free radicals similar to superoxide dismutase (SOD). Glabridin powder can not only inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, but also inhibit dopachrome inter-conversion and dihydroxyindole carboxylic acid oxidase activity.
Studies have shown that, at a concentration of 0.1mg/ml, Glabridin powder can act on the cytochrome P450/NADOH oxidation system, scavenging 67% free radicals, so it has strong antioxidant activity.
Figure. free radical scavenging by glabridin powder
3. Glabridin Powder for Anti-inflammation
Water-soluble Glabridin powder can be used to improve bioavailability, and has less cytotoxicity. Also, it has a better melanin inhibitory effect, as well as effectively reduces the expression of inflammatory cytokines, interleukin-6 and interleukin-10. The in vitro anti-inflammatory effect of Glabridin powder is also manifested in the inhibition of superoxide anion production and cyclooxygenase activity. Therefore, it can be used as a topical therapeutic agent to inhibit skin inflammation and combat skin damage caused by ultraviolet radiation.
Figure. inhibition of cyclooxygenase synthesis by glabridin powder
The study indicates that 0.5% Glabridin powder can inhibit UVB-induced skin pigmentation and erythema of guinea pigs. 0.5% glabridin powder (or base solutions for the control) were topically applied for 3 weeks. Reduced pigmentation was seen in glabridin-treated skin.
In 1998, Japanese researcher Tomohiro Yokota conducted a study on melanin and inflammation inhibition of Glabridin powder. After replacing two hydroxyl groups at different positions in the chemical structure of Glabridin powder, the results showed that compared to 2’hydroxyl, the 4’hydroxyl at the position has a greater influence on the inhibition of melanin synthesis. When both hydroxyl groups are replaced, Glabridin powder loses the effect of inhibiting melanin production. This research has pointed out the chemical part of Glabridin powder’s whitening effect.
In conclusion, Glabridin powder’s skin benefits for whitening and lightening are achieved by inhibiting melanin synthesis, anti-oxidation and anti-inflammation.
Nowadays, Glabridin powder on the market is not water-soluble, but Plamed develops 10% water-soluble Glabridin powder. 10% Glabridin has a slightly acidic pH, between 6 and 7. No requirement for metal ions. It is suitable to be added into whitening mask.
Glabridin powder has a great whitening effect, but the price is also very high, which limits its use in cosmetics.
Plamed recently develops a new specification PCR Glabridin powder; its bioavailability is three times that of ordinary Glabridin powder, also reducing the use cost to one-third. That is to say, you can buy Glabridin powder with a low price; meanwhile PCR Glabridin powder is easily absorbed by skin than ordinary Glabridin powder.
Figure. Trend diagram of cumulative penetration percentage change over time
Figure. HPLC test results
Additionally, Plamed 40% Glabridin powder has more advantages. Plamed 40% Glabridin powder is more whiter than other glabridin powder on the market. Also it is completely dissolved in butanediol which is mild to the skin; and there is no precipitation and crystallization after 7 days of sitting.
More information about glabridin powder’s skin benefits in cosmetics, please read the following articles.
2. Glabridin-Licorice Root Extract for Skin Whitening
3. Licorice Extract for Skincare
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