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Sensitive skin market continues to grow, especially in the post epidemic era, long-term wearing masks lead to changes in the microenvironment of the facial skin, redness, itching, peeling and other skin sensitivities have received widespread attention. Various beauty brands have expressed much attention to the sensitive skin market, and have launched sensitive skin + efficacy skin care products. Sensitive skin is divided into dry sensitive skin and oil sensitive skin according to individual differences. Dry sensitive skin care was a major need, while oily sensitive skin population has exploded in recent years.
The main expression of oily sensitive skin is exuberant sebum secretion, greasiness, enlarged pores, and dull complexion, accompanied by impaired skin barrier, dryness, redness, and intolerance to external stimuli.
Why oily sensitive skin?
Sensitive skin has a thin stratum corneum, the stratum corneum’s ability to retain moisture is reduced, the skin is dry, the barrier function is disrupted, then the basal layer of the skin will secrete a large amount of oil to defend against dryness, the skin oil-water imbalance, which is the formation of the oil sensitive skin. Specific reasons are: excessive skin care, lifestyle disorders, staying up late, stress, unhealthy diet.
PMOil-control® 9574. It not only has outstanding oil-control effects, it’s gentle and non-irritating, but more importantly, it soothes irritation caused by other ingredients.
PMOil-control® 9574 is a combination of three plant extracts: White Willow Bark Extract, Piper Methysticum Root Extract and Pueraria Lobata Root Extract. The main active substance of white willow bark is salicin, which has aspirin-like properties and is used in medicine for healing wounds and relieving muscle pain. Studies have found that White Willow Bark Extract also has oil control, anti-inflammatory, anti-acne, and anti-aging skin care properties. Piper methysticum is widely used in nutritional supplements and herbal preparations in Europe and the United States. Plamed tested and found Piper Methysticum Root Extract can effectively inhibit the overreaction of sensory nerves, thereby significantly improving the skin’s tolerance to external stimuli, is a strong analgesic, anti-irritant natural cosmetic raw materials; Pueraria Lobata Root Extract is rich in a variety of natural plant compounds, its main active ingredient is isoflavones, Plamed test data shows that it has excellent oil-control effect.
01 PMOil-control® 9574 for Oil Control
5α-reductase is an important metabolic enzyme in the skin that irreversibly converts testosterone to dihydrotestosterone (DHT), which induces the sebaceous glands to overproduce oil. Therefore, the inhibition rate of 5α-reductase can be tested to determine whether a product can alleviate the overproduction of oil by sebaceous glands.
Plamed tested the inhibition rate of 5α-reductase at the same concentration of 1% by comparing Salicylic Acid (99%), Zinc PCA (99%) and Yeast Zinc, the three more popular ingredients used by cosmetic formulators, and PMOil-control® 9574. The results show that PMOil-control® 9574 inhibits 5α-reductase in vitro 2.7 to 5.3 times more than the mainstream synthetic oil-control ingredients, PCA zinc, salicylic acid and yeast zinc.
In order to further verify the oil-control ability of PMOil-control® 9574 at the cellular level, Plamed also tested its ability to inhibit the secretion of oil from sebaceous gland cells. The results showed that the ability to inhibit the secretion of oil droplets from sebaceous glands increased with increasing dosage, and that the oil-control ability was concentration-dependent. When PMOil-control® 9574 and PCA zinc (99%) were tested for their ability to inhibit sebum secretion from sebaceous gland cells at the same concentration of 0.001% (because the safe concentration of PCA zinc in sebaceous gland cells is 0.001%), the content of lipid droplets in sebaceous gland cells was reduced by 22.5% in the PMOil-control® 9574 group, whereas lipid droplet content was reduced by only 7.9% in the PCA zinc group. At the cellular level, PMOil-control® 9574 is proved to be 3 times more effective than PCA zinc in controlling oil.
02 Gentle, Non-irritation
Strong potency ingredients may be accompanied by strong irritants, such as phenylethyl resorcinol, retinol, etc. So is PMOil-control® 9574 irritating? The results of the cosmetic ocular irritation and corrosive test on chick embryo chorionic allantoic membrane showed that 3% of PMOil-control® 9574 is non-irritating. The result of the human experiment is that no adverse skin reaction was observed in 30 people after 48h of using PMOil-control® 9574. From the above two experimental models, it is concluded that PMOil-control® 9574 is gentle and non-irritating, and suitable for sensitive skin.
03 Excellent in Anti-irritation
Targeted at sensitive skin, PMOil-control® 9574 also has a soothing effect on the irritation caused by other ingredients.
1) TRPV1 Inhibition
TRPV1, also known as capsaicin receptor, is activated once it encounters an irritant or a temperature change. Sensations such as tingling, burning, and itching resulting from skin irritation are caused by the activation of TRPV1. Based on keratinocytes, PMOil-control® 9574 inhibited TRPV1 by 43.29% at 0.313% concentration.
2) Anti-inflammation
The anti-inflammatory efficacy of PMOil-control® 9574 was examined using changes in skin neutrophil counts before and after treatment with the transgenic neutrophil green fluorescent strain of zebrafish (MPX). The results showed that the neutrophil count in the 0.12% PMOil-control® 9574 group was reduced by 74% compared to the model control group. It illustrates PMOil-control® 9574 inhibits 74% inflammation at the concentration of 0.12%.
3) Nerve Soothing
Stimulation of zebrafish using ice acetic acid induced large and prolonged inflammatory pain, resulting in increased move distance and speed. We evaluated the soothing effect of PMOil-control® 9574 by measuring the total distance and speed of movement of zebrafish using a behavioral analyzer. 0.025% of the total distance of movement of PMOil-control® 9574 was reduced by 66% compared to the model control group.
4) Human capsaicin patch test
Human capsaicin patch test showed that PMOil-control® 9574 can significantly inhibit the skin tingling, burning and redness caused by capsaicin, and improve the tolerance of the skin. As shown in the figure, Group A showed obvious tingling, burning and redness, while Group B showed no adverse reactions.
04 Safety
We tested the cytotoxicity of PMOil-control® 9574 and PCA zinc on the basis of sebaceous gland cells and showed that the maximum safe concentration range of PMOil-control® 9574 is about 500 times higher than that of PCA zinc, whereas salicylic acid remains toxic to sebaceous gland cells at 0.001%.
05 Stability
A common challenge with natural ingredients is stability, and PMOil-control® 9574 has excellent batch and system stability.
In summary: The natural ingredient PMOil-control® 9574 not only has an outstanding oil control effect and is gentle and non-irritating, but also has a strong ability to soothe irritation that may be caused by other ingredients, making it a natural ingredient that is unavailable in the oil-sensitive skin market.
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