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It has been reported that ethyl ascorbic acid (INCI name is 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, 3OAA) is the best vitamin C derivative so far. It is not only chemically stable, but it is easily decomposed by biological enzymes after entering the skin to play the role of vitamin C. In addition, ethyl ascorbic acid has a lipophilic and hydrophilic amphiphilic structure, which makes it extremely convenient to use in cosmetic formulas. The amphiphilicity of 3OAA makes it easier to penetrate the stratum corneum into the dermis, thus exerting its biological effects. Study has shown that ethyl ascorbic acid is the most stable vitamin C derivative for skincare. It has skin benefits for whitening, and anti-aging.
1. Ethyl Ascorbic Acid Skin Benefits
The reason ethyl ascorbic acid has so many skin care benefits is that it is reduced to vitamin C by enzymes when it is absorbed by the skin.
1.1 Skin Whitening and Lightening
Vitamin C released by ethyl ascorbic acid after being absorbed by the skin can directly reduce melanin, thus achieving the effect of whitening skin and removing spots. ethyl ascorbic acid can also reduce o-quinone due to its own antioxidant activity, and inhibit the activity of catalase to restrain melanin production.
At the same time, ethyl ascorbic acid can also participate in the metabolism of tyrosine in the body, reducing the conversion of tyrosine into melanin and reducing the production of melanin.
Therefore, ethyl ascorbic acid is an efficient skin whitening and lightening agent. Added to cosmetic formula, ethyl ascorbic acid can effectively reduce facial pigmentation and keep the skin white.
1.2 Anti-aging
Ethyl ascorbic acid is an excellent antioxidant; it effectively fights against free radicals, and resists the damage caused by UVA and UVB. Thus, it can prevent skin cell damage and aging, and help the skin to reduce harmful free radicals produced by metabolism.
Meanwhile, as ethyl ascorbic acid has the properties of repairing collagen (including the composition and synthesis of collagen), it can promote the formation of skin cells and the synthesis of collagen according to the ratio of skin cells and collagen consumption. When the skin is lack of vitamin C, the amount of collagen reduces. As a result, the skin will be rough, dehydration, and lack elasticity. Therefore, to maintain the health of the skin, sufficient vitamin C must be supplemented.
2. Ethyl Ascorbic Acid Advantages for Skincare
Firstly, as the most stable Vitamin C derivative, ethyl ascorbic acid has more effective skin whitening properties than others. As can be seen from the figure below, in the same vitamin C derivative content, vitamin C ethyl ether has the lowest melanin content, indicating that vitamin C ethyl ether can effectively inhibit tyrosinase activity, can better inhibit melanin, and has better whitening effect.
Ethyl ascorbic acid’s effect to inhibit tyrosinase activity is close to ascorbic acid at the concentration of 1.0%.
Secondly, ethyl ascorbic acid’s pH value is close to skin pH, as well as Ascorbic Acid 2 Glucoside. In other words, the pH value of ethyl ascorbic acid and Ascorbic Acid 2 Glucoside are close to acidic, which are more suitable for the skin properties. However, the synthesis process of Ascorbic Acid 2 Glucoside is more complicated and the cost is higher. Now it is used in relatively high-end cosmetics. In contrast, ethyl ascorbic acid has much value to be developed.
From the following figure, we can see that ethyl ascorbic acid is stable in pH 3 to 6.
Thirdly, ethyl ascorbic acid is stable below the temperature of 25℃.
3. Ethyl Ascorbic Acid Safety
- In 1997, both Korea and Japan confirm3-o-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID as cosmetic ingredient.
- In 2001, Korea FDA authorizes 3-o-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID as cosmetic functional ingredient.
- On the Announcement of Name List of Cosmetics Raw Material published by China Food and Drug Administration in 2021have recognized 3-o-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID as cosmetic raw material.
4. Ethyl Ascorbic Acid Uses in Cosmetic Formula
Ethyl ascorbic acid is convenient to be applied in cosmetic emulsion and formulations, because of its good water solubility.
In order to stabilize ethyl ascorbic acid’s pH value, it is suggested to add 1 % citrate bufferin the cosmetic formula.
Ethyl ascorbic acid should be stored in a dry place and avoid light at temperatures below 20°C.
If ethyl ascorbic acid is added into emulsify system, firstly dissolve it in water. Then add it into suitable water, at the temperature below 60℃ add the solution into emulsify system.
If added into single system, directly add ethyl ascorbic acid into water, stir evenly.
In conclusion, ethyl ascorbic acid, as the most stable Vitamin C derivative, offers super skincare benefits. It can be added into different functional products, including cream, serum, lotion, toner and others.
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