Cosmetic Formulators’ Favorite VC Derivative: Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin aging usually shows wrinkles, skin sagging and spots, etc. If you want to fight against skin aging, you should know why people will age. For the skin, the factors that cause aging are mainly divided into two categories-chronologically aging and photo-aging. 1) Chronologically aging: mainly refers to the aging caused by irresistible factors such as genetics, endocrine and immune function in the body as we age. 2) Photo-aging: mainly refers to the acceleration of the natural aging process due to the action of ultraviolet rays; climate change and environmental pollution also have a direct effect on skin photo-aging. Therefore, we share with you 5 best anti-aging ingredients for skincare, hope this blog can benefit a lot.
Generally, the face skin is divided into three layers: epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous tissue. Dermis is mainly composed of collagen fibers and elastic fibers, which is an important part directly related to skin aging. Collagen fibers and elastic fibers cross to form an elastic web, like a spring, to maintain the elasticity and tension of the skin.
According to statistics from China market, we list the below anti-aging ingredients for your reference.
1. Pro-xylane: Superstar for Anti-aging
Pro-xylane is a glycoprotein mixture that stimulates the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) and promotes the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid. In addition, it can also induce the dermal and epidermal structural components to bond tightly, helping to maintain dermal elasticity, prevent skin aging, and ultimately achieve anti-wrinkle and firming effects.
As an anti-aging gold ingredient in the past 20 years, the number of records on NMPA and social media volume of pro-xylane in 2023 still maintained rapid growth, increasing by 100% and 98.25% respectively.
Figure. Pro-xylane’s records on NMPA and volume of social media
Xylose, one of the main ingredients of pro-xylane, is a natural sugar present in beech, but pro-xylane itself is a synthetic compound. Pro-xylane cannot be used with high concentration of niacinamide, and when at the alkaline environment, pro-xylane may cause niacinamide to be converted to niacin, which can irritate the skin.
2. Retinol (Vitamin A): Heavyweight for Anti-aging
Retinol is a form of vitamin A. When absorbed through the skin, retinol can act on the dermal fibroblasts to accelerate the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid, thus achieving anti-wrinkle firming. Retinol is photosensitive and is not suitable for daytime use. The number of records on NMPA from January to November 2023 increased by 13.29% year-on-year, indicating that retinol continues to be recognized by the market as an anti-aging mainstream ingredient. Retinol is not only used in skin care products, but in the past 11 months, it has been widely used in skin care, body care and makeup.
However, retinol is irritating to the skin. We recommend to use bakuchiol as an alternative, bakuchiol is mild and effective for anti-aging. Also, you can add some soothing ingredients in your retinol formulation.
3. Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu): The Multitasking Role
Copper Tripeptide-1, is a compound GHK-Cu that combines glycyl-histadyl-lysine (GHK) with copper, and its aqueous solution is blue. As a signal peptide, GHK-Cu releases signals after entering the skin, stimulating fibroblasts to produce more collagen, elastin, and proteoglycan. Also, it can promote the production of type I, IV and VII collagen, so that to tighten skin, improve skin elasticity and firmness, reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
Figure. 0.5% GHK-Cu’s anti-aging effect is more obvious than others
As a small molecular protein, GHK-Cu can gently achieve multiple skincare effects, such as anti-aging, healing and repair, anti-inflammation. It’s less irritating to the skin and have a more comprehensive effects. GHK-Cu cannot combined ingredients, such as tartaric acid, salicylic acid, vitamin C, retinol and others, otherwise it will backfire. It can be used with ingredients such as pro-xylane and ectoin to achieve synergistic efficacy.
4. Ergothioneine (EGT): Secret for Keep Young Skin
Ergothioneine (EGT) was first discovered in 1909 in ergot bacteria, and is a rare natural amino acid in nature. Studies have shown that ergothioneine has broad application prospects in the cosmetics industry, which has the functions of anti-radiation, whitening, reducing wrinkles, removing acne, shrinking pores, and anti-aging. Ergothioneine increased by 89.95% in the number of application product filings from January to November 2023, attracting the attention and research of many brands. Ergothioneine is favored by the market because of its development potential in anti-aging and anti-oxidation for skincare.
Figure. Mechanism of Ergothioneine
EGT is transported to the mitochondria, which are important for life activities, through the transporter OCTN1 on the cell membrane and mitochondrial membrane. Thus, EGT exerts antioxidant function, inhibits DNA damage, effectively protects cells from UV damage, and prevents photo-aging. At the same time, it has the ability to remove free radicals, reduce lipid peroxidation, and promote the body’s own antioxidant enzymes.
5. Soluble Collagen: The Unsung Anti-Aging Warrior
Soluble collagen is a natural protein that is a form of collagen. Collagen is one of the most important components of the skin; it consists of the main supporting structure of the skin, giving it elasticity and firmness. Soluble collagen has a small molecular weight and good water solubility, which can form a moisturizing film on the skin surface to prevent water loss. Soluble collagen can stimulate and promote collagen synthesis, help repair damaged collagen, and promote the production of new collagen, thereby improving skin elasticity and firmness.
In 2023, soluble collagen is mostly popular in China market, many cosmetics brands use soluble collagen in their skincare products.
Figure. Soluble collagen’s records on NMPA and volume of social media
Nowadays, soluble collagen is synthesized by genetic engineering, and its raw materials are single-cell protein and yeast, etc., which involves cell factory construction, fermentation, separation and purification technology, etc.. Its water solubility is good, no virus infection risk and rejection reaction.
That concludes our list of the top five anti-aging ingredients for outstanding, age-defying skincare formulations. The formulator’s powerful weapons should include pro-xylane, retinol, copper tripeptide-1, ergothioneine, and soluble collagen.
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