Plamed Vision: Become the leader of natural cosmetic ingredients for sensitive skin.
INCI name： SALIX ALBA (WILLOW) BARK EXTRACT HYDROXYPROPYL CYCLODEXTRIN
Actives： Salicin≥60%
Solubility： Water soluble
Dosage： 0.5%~2%
Function： Exfoliating
Highlights： Endogenous exfoliating botanical ingredient; No Salicylic Acid detected
1. PMRefresh® Willow achieves gentle and safe exfoliation by increasing KLK7 and inhibiting SPINK5 (Kazal type 5), and achieves 50% of the exfoliating power of Salicylic Acid.
2. Patent pending for exfoliating target.
Physical exfoliation：Exfoliating creams containing scrubs are physically abrasive; medical laser resurfacing uses a special wavelength of laser light to ‘burn’ away excess keratin.
Chemical exfoliation：Chemical ingredients, such as acids like AHA and BHA, or some cationic surfactants, are used to ‘etch’ away excess keratin.
Biological exfoliation：Some biological components, such as alpha keratinase and papain, are used to break down keratin so that excess keratin can be loosened and fall off, and there are also some active ingredients that promote the expression of keratolytic enzymes within the skin tissue to achieve exfoliation, which is also called endogenous exfoliation.
Advantages and characteristics of the raw materials production area:
1. QinLing Mountains are located at the junction of subtropical and warm temperate zones, with an average annual temperature of 12-14℃ and an annual precipitation of about 800-1200 millimeters, with four distinct seasons and uniform precipitation. This climate is conducive to the rapid growth of white willow, thick trunk and thickening of the bark layer.
2. The large temperature difference between day and night helps the plant to accumulate more active ingredients and increase the medicinal content of the bark.
Step1：AI target prediction
The target of salicin’s exfoliation effect was predicted by molecular docking technique in computer aided drug design (CADD) system.
Step2：Biological test verification
Then, according to the target predicted by the software, biological tests were conducted based on the 3D epidermal skin model to verify the accuracy of the target.
Step3：Multi-model efficacy testing
The exfoliating effect of the product was analyzed by testing the cuticle thickness and the total protein content of the product based on 3D skin model and isolated pig skin multi-model.
Two targets for salicin exfoliation
The targeting of salicin on serine protease KLK7 and serine protease inhibitor SPINK5 was predicted by the molecular docking technique of computer aided drug design (CADD) system. We founded that inhibition of SPINK5 and enhancement of KLK7 enzyme activity promote the exfoliation of necrotic keratinocytes.
Salicin targets to increase KLK7 content
Salicin targets inhibition of SPINK5
Stratum comeum (SC) cell shedding from the skin surface is the result of a tightly regulated multistep protein hydrolysis process. It depends mainly on the continuous breakdown of ‘peripheral’ horny desmosomes at the epidermal surface to facilitate the shedding of epidermal keratinocytes. A number of proteases are involved in this process. KLK7：serine protease SPINK5：serine protease inhibitor
Exfoliating mechanism–kallikrein 7（KLK7）content test
Exfoliating mechanism–Serine peptidase inhibitor Kazal type 5 (SPINK5) recombinant protein content test
Proteins are the main components in the stratum corneum, and since the number of exfoliated keratinocytes is directly proportional to the number of exfoliated proteins, so
1) Based on the 3D skin model and isolated pig skin, the total exfoliated proteins can be quantified to evaluate whether the product has exfoliating efficacy and the strength of the exfoliating efficacy.
2) The histomorphology of the stratum corneum (stratum corneum thickness) can also be used as an indicator to evaluate the exfoliation efficacy.
Exfoliation effect on 3D skin–Stratum corneum thickness test
Exfoliation effect on 3D skin–Total protein content test
Exfoliation effect on isolated pig skin–Total protein content test
According to the ” Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics ” (2015 edition), the safety test results showed: skin adverse reactions occurred in 0 out of 30 people after using 6% PMRefresh® Willow in 48 hours.
The aqueous solution of PMRefresh® Willow at different pH (4~10) was clarified and transparent without precipitation under all the conditions after 30 days of storage at low temperature (4℃), normal temperature (20~30℃) and high temperature (45℃), and had good stability.
Nekhoroshev, S. V et al. found that the conditions affecting the hydrolysis of salicin without the participation of enzymes are mainly PH, temperature and time. And the test demonstrated that the time required for hydrolysis of salicin at PH4.0 and temperature 40℃ is more than 10 years, and after hydrolysis of salicin, it needs to be oxidised twice before it can be converted into salicylic acid. In order to verify the conclusion of the study, Plamed put 1% white willow bark extract (containing 70% salicin) in aqueous solution, adjusted PH to 4.0, 5.0, 6.0, 7.0, 8.0, 9.0 and 10.0 respectively, and left it at room temperature (20~30℃) for 1 year to test its salicin and salicylic acid content (converted to powder content), and the results were as follows:
A: Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin is incorporated to substantially enhance the dissolution stability of the product. The first-generation white willow bark extract exhibited solution instability upon standing after dissolution, turning hazy or generating minor precipitation. To address this, the second-generation PMRefresh® Willow utilizes supramolecular inclusion technology, leveraging Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin to encapsulate these unstable components and completely eliminate precipitation issues.
A: The pricing of PMRefresh® Willow is primarily driven by its proprietary technology and high standards of regulatory compliance regarding raw materials:
A: According to official solubility test reports, the maximum solubility of PMRefresh® Willow in deionized water at room temperature (23.6°C) ranges from 7g~7.5g/100g of water. If a customer experiences precipitation when preparing a high-concentration (10%) solution, this is a result of concentration supersaturation. Therefore, it is recommended that the maximum dosage in the aqueous phase at room temperature does not exceed 7.0g/100g of water (i.e., 7%).
A: PMRefresh® Willow exhibits exceptional formulation compatibility. Initial compounding assays with commonly used thickening networks, preservative systems, humectants, polyols, and ionic systems have shown normal performance, with no compounding incompatibilities identified to date.
In Acidic Systems (e.g., pH4): Stability data indicate that the product remains physiochemically stable under accelerated aging conditions (45℃ for 9 months) at pH4. It can be safely incorporated into unthickened, transparent systems without experiencing any cloudiness or precipitation. If the formulation design dictates prolonged storage in highly acidic environments (pH 2.5 ~ 4), maintaining a pH above 3.0 is highly recommended.
A: It is recommended to introduce the ingredient during the final phase of manufacturing, when the batch temperature drops below 45℃. Although transient high temperatures during processing will not degrade the active molecules, low-temperature introduction ensures the long-term structural integrity of the supramolecular inclusion complex.In terms of compounding strategies, if a brand aims to design a product for consumers who require prolonged, continuous use of exfoliants, incorporating an appropriate dosage of Piper methysticum (Kava) extract is highly recommended. This combination delivers exceptional anti-irritation benefits, mitigating potential risks of skin discomfort caused by high-potency exfoliation and elevating the overall mildness of the product.
A: Ethanol is utilized as the processing solvent during the manufacturing of PMRefresh® Willow, but its residual amount is strictly controlled within 2000 mg/kg., fully complying with national regulatory mandates. Furthermore, potential risk substances such as methanol within the ethanol solvent are strictly monitored and restricted to 2000mg/kg in compliance with safety specifications. Plamed can provide an official Statement on Residual Solvents upon request.
The product complies with a Corporate Standard. However, the parameters of this enterprise standard are rigorously established based on the Chinese Pharmacopoeia, the Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics, and corresponding National Standards (GB), ensuring a quality profile far superior to standard market commodities.
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