Plamed Vision: Become the leader of natural cosmetic ingredients for sensitive skin.
Escin can effectively improve dark circles, fat granule, eye bags and other problems around the eyes, so escin is mostly used in eye products.After Plamed’s research and testing, we found that escin can not only improve the skin problems around the eyes, but also has good capillary anti-osmotic, anti-inflammatory and promoting blood circulation. Therefore, we will PCR® Supramolecular Escin is located in the natural skin redness repair factor, applicable to all anti-redness products. Its efficacy mainly focuses on anti-osmotic, anti-inflammatory, constricting capillaries
| Product Name | INCI Name |
| PCR® Supramolecular Escin | AESCULUS CHINENSIS EXTRACT ;
HYDROXYPROPYL CYCLODEXTRIN |
| Minimal Package | Minimal Order Quality |
| 1kg | 1kg |
Horse chestnut (Latin name: Aesculus Wilsonii Rehd), also known as conker tree, is a deciduous plant of Sapindaceae family. Its seed is close to spherical; color is chestnut brown. The seed can be eaten after cooking with alkaline water. Also it can be used for medicinal purpose. The fruit of horse chestnut contains a large number of saponin compounds, mainly Aescin. And its seed is rich in fatty oil, crude protein, fiber, starch, etc; it is a traditional Chinese medicine. The seed is mainly used for cosmetics.
| TEST ITEMS | SPECIFICATION |
| Escin | ≥7% |
| Organoleptic Tests | |
| Appearance | Powder |
| Color | Off-white to light yellow |
| Odor | Characteristic |
| Physical Characteristics | |
| Moisture | ≤10.0% |
| Ash content | ≤7.0% |
| Heavy Metals | |
| Pb | ≤10ppm |
| As | ≤2ppm |
| Hg | ≤1ppm |
| Cd | ≤5ppm |
| Microbiological Tests | |
| Total of bacteria | ≤1000cfu/g |
| Yeast & mold | ≤100cfu/g |
| Pseudomonas aeruginosa | Not detected |
| Staphylococcus aureus | Not detected |
| Heat-resistant escherichia coil | Not detected |
In vitro experiments demon strated that incubation with escin strongly inhibited the activity of hyaluronidase, which degrades hyaluronic acid, the main component of the capillary extravascular matrix. Recovery of components such as hyaluronic acid may reduce leakage of plasma from endothelium and may help to explain the effect of escin on edema.
Figure. The mode of action of escin
The test results showed that when the concentration of escin was 0.25mM, the inhibitory effect on hyaluronidase reached more than 90%. At the same concentration, escin had better inhibition effect on hyaluronidase, and the effective concentration was lower.
The efficacy of 1% escin+5% DEAS gel versus a placebo gel was compared in patients with stages 2 and 3 saphenous vein varices in a randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blind, clinical study. As can be seen from the figure, the anti-edema effect of escin preparation was significantly better than that of the placebo group, and the edema symptoms of most people who applied it were significantly relieved after 2 weeks.
Figure. Changes in (A) heaviness in the legs (B) and swelling in the evening symptom scores after topical application of escin-based gel or placebo in patients with saphenous vein varices
Escin can reduce the levels of inflammatory factors TNF-α, IL- 1β and PGE2. It also achieves anti-inflammatory effects by up-regulating the expression of the glucocorticoid receptor (GR) and by inhibiting the expression of GR-related signalling molecules such as NF-κB and AP-1.
Among them, pro-inflammatory cytokines activate endothelial cells, leading to increased vascular permeability in injured tissues, resulting in capillary leakage and vasodilation, causing skin redness, inflammation and other injuries. Therefore, reducing the level of inflammatory factors can also achieve the effect of anti-redness.
It has been proved that escin can relieve the foot swelling, ear swelling, capillary permeability and cotton ball granuloma in rats, and has a good anti-inflammatory and anti-edema effect.
Figure. Anti-inflammatory effects of escin in vivo.
Model: the group treated with blank gel; Dex: the reference drug group treated with Dexamethasone acetate cream. *P < 0.05 and **P < 0.01 vs model group
The below figure shows that escin can effectively up-regulate the expression of glucocorticoid receptor (GR) in rat paw tissues and dorsal skin, by up-regulating glucocorticoid receptor, thus achieving anti-inflammatory effect.
Figure. Effects of escin on protein expression of GR in inflammatory tissues.
#P < 0.05 vs normal control, *P < 0.05 and **P < 0.01 vs model control
Recent pharmacological studies have confirmed that escin has the effect of resisting inflammation and exudation, increasing venous tone and improving microcirculation, and its effect of promoting venous and microvascular blood circulation is most prominent. Escin promotes blood circulation and maintains the normal function of venous blood vessel walls, and is often used to improve the redness and swelling of varicose veins and acute contusions. In addition, escin repair dressing is both soothing and moisturising, and is able to counteract skin sensitivity, inhibit capillary inflammatory reactions, and avoid vascular damage caused by acute inflammation.
The total effective rate of using epidermal nutrient solution and escins repair dressings in the treatment of telangiectasia was 94.74%, and the recurrence rate was 16.67%, which was significantly lower than the recurrence rate of 40% in laser treatment alone, and the recurrence rate decreased by 58.3%.
PCR® Supramolecular Escin is white to off-white color. Plamed uses the supramolecular capture technology and decolorization technology to solve the problem of deep color of escin, so that its water solution is clarified and transparent.
Plamed has solved the problem of water solubility of escin by using the original supramolecular capture technology, which makes it soluble in water, and clarified and transparent after dissolution, with better stability.
PCR® Supramolecular Escin solutions with different pH remained transparent and colourless after 1 month at low (4°C), normal (20-30°C) and high (45°C) temperatures with good product stability.
Supramolecular Capture Technology, is a creative fusion of supramolecular embedding technology and molecular membrane filtration technology, which is developed by Plamed. It’s an advanced active substance extraction system alone.
The International Catalogue of Chinese Cosmetic Raw Materials Standards in 2021 includes AESCULUS CHINENSIS EXTRACT.
In recent years, with the increasing demand of consumers for natural ingredients in skin care products and the gradual recognition of the efficacy of skin care products including escin, the number of registered products containing escin has increased year by year. This shows that consumer demand for escin skin care products is increasing.
Figure. Number and growth rate of products containing “escin”
Number and growth rate of products containing “Aesculus Chinensis Extract”
| Application | Recommended Dosage |
| Body lotion, body cream, body spray | 0.1%~2% |
Package: Packed in 1kg aluminum foil bag or 25kg paper drums with two plastic bags inside.
Storage: Stored in a cool and dry place and away from direct sunlight and oxidizing agents.
A: Premium horse chestnut sourced from Hanzhong, Shaanxi, China, is selected as the starting material to ensure traceability and premium quality.
A: It exhibits excellent solubility. When preparing a 3% aqueous solution, simply stir at room temperature for about 5 minutes to achieve complete dissolution and clarity. No supplemental high-temperature heating or ultrasonic assistance is needed.
A: Long-term precipitation is mainly attributed to two factors: first, as time goes by, the internal supramolecular inclusion balance shifts slowly, causing aggregates to form; second, the glycosidic bonds of escin may undergo gradual micro-hydrolysis over time, leading to precipitation (Note: Comprehensive stability testing for new batches, including content and pH monitoring, is currently underway).
A: Stability data shows that the ingredient remains relatively stable within a pH range of 4 to 6 (retaining stability at pH 4 for up to one year). Significant deviations from this pH range may induce minor precipitation upon prolonged storage.
A: The evaluation was conducted using samples specifically designed based on an eye cream formula, though this base formula has not undergone commercial optimization. We can provide this base formula to clients as a benchmarking reference for subsequent testing and refinement.
A: Formulators can select from the following three categories of common penetration enhancers:
Chemical Enhancers: Ethanol, glycols (propanediol/butanediol), fatty acids (oleic acid), surfactants, azone, DMI, etc.
Natural Enhancers: Mint derivatives (menthol), eugenol, inositol, eucalyptus oil, terpenes, tetrahydropiperine (THP), etc.
Biological Enhancers: Penetration peptides (offering high biocompatibility, enabling efficient transport of large molecules across biological membranes at low dosages).
A: It depends on your testing objective: For rapid screening of anti-irritation or soothing properties, the raw aqueous solution can be tested directly. However, to verify long-term efficacy such as dark circle reduction, it is highly recommended to incorporate it into a stable base formulation before conducting clinical or in vitro trials.
[1] Roberto,Maffei,Facino,et al.Anti-Elastase and Anti-Hyaluronidase Activities of Saponins and Sapogenins from Hedera helix, Aesculus hippocastanum, and Ruscus aculeatus: Factors Contributing to their Efficacy in the Treatment of Venous Insufficiency[J].Archiv Der Pharmazie,1995.DOI:10.1002/ardp.19953281006.
[2] Gallelli L .Escin: a review of its anti-edematous, anti-inflammatory, and venotonic properties[J].Drug Design,Development and Therapy, 2019,13.DOI:10.2147/DDDT.S207720.
[3] ZHAO S ,XU S ,CHENG J , et al. Anti-inflammatory effect of external use of escin on cutaneous inflammation: possible involvement of glucocorticoids receptor [J].Chinese Journal of Natural Medicines, 2018, 16 (2): 105- 112.
[4] Sebastiani F ,D’Alterio C ,Vocca C , et al. Effectiveness of Silymarin, Sulforaphane, Lycopene, Green Tea, Tryptophan, Glutathione, and Escin on Human Health: ANarrative Review [J]. Uro, 2023, 3 (3): 208-228.
[5] M L S ,Víctor L ,Ana S , et al. Epidermal inactivation of the glucocorticoid receptor triggers skin barrier defects and cutaneous inflammation. [J]. The Journal of investigative dermatology, 2013, 133 (2): 361-70.
[6] 程春泉,徐佳洁,杨晓蕾,等. 激光联合表皮营养液及七叶树皂苷修护敷料治疗面部毛细血管扩张症疗效分析 [J]. 中国美容医学, 2017, 26 (09): 61-64.DOI:10. 15909/j.cnki.cn61- 1347/r.001943.
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