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Glabridin is a kind of flavonoids, extracted from the dry rhizomes of Glycyrrhiza glabra. It is known as “whitening gold” because of its powerful whitening effect. Glabridin can effectively inhibit tyrosinase activity, thereby inhibiting the production of melanin. It is a safe, mild as well as effective whitening active ingredient. Experimental data show that the whitening effect of Glabridin is 232 times that of vitamin C, 16 times that of hydroquinone, and 1164 times that of arbutin.
Glabridin is a kind of flavonoids, extracted from the dry rhizomes of Glycyrrhiza glabra. It is known as “whitening gold” because of its powerful whitening effect. Glabridin can effectively inhibit tyrosinase activity, thereby inhibiting the production of melanin. It is a safe, mild as well as effective whitening active ingredient. Experimental data show that the whitening effect of Glabridin is 232 times that of vitamin C, 16 times that of hydroquinone, and 1164 times that of arbutin.
As the top three whitening ingredients and ranked 11th in the popularity of functional ingredients, Glabridin has always been favored by consumers. Data show that the popularity of Glabridin is increasing year by year. As a popular and effective raw material, its value is discounted because of its high cost.
As a result, Plamed develops PMWhite® Glabridin300. On the basis of more convenient application, it significantly improves the bioavailability of the product. Experimental data show that the bioavailability of PMWhite® Glabridin300 is 3.1 times that of ordinary Glabridin, which can help customers greatly reduce the cost of adding Glabridin.
| Product Name | INCI Name | ||
| PMWhite® Glabridin300 | HYDROXYPROPYL CYCLODEXTRIN, GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA (LICORICE) ROOT EXTRACT, PIPER NIGRUM (PEPPER) SEED EXTRACT |
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| Product ID | Specification | Minimal Package | Minimal Order Quantity |
| PMWT0201 | Glabridin≥10% | 100G | 100G |
| Items | Specifications |
| Glabridin | ≥10% |
| Physical Characteristics | |
| Appearance | White powder |
| Loss on drying | ≤10.00% |
| Residue on ignition | ≤7.00% |
| Solubility | Well soluble in water |
| Heavy Metals | |
| Pb | ≤10ppm |
| As | ≤2ppm |
| Hg | ≤1ppm |
| Cd | ≤5ppm |
| Microbiological Tests | |
| Total plate count | ≤1000cfu/g |
| Total yeast & mold | ≤100cfu/g |
| Thermotoletant coliform | Not detected |
| Staphylococcus aureus | Not detected |
| Pseudomonas aeruginosa | Not detected |
Normally, the cause of skin darkening is tyrosinase and reactive oxygen species. Tyrosinase can regularly produce melanin, making the skin black. And external stimuli (including common ultraviolet rays, inflammation, allergies, etc.) can cause excessive secretion of tyrosinase, which makes the skin black.
Glabridin is an excellent melanin inhibitor. Firstly, with the participation of glabridin, the activity of tyrosinase is significantly inhibited, thus blocking the biosynthesis of melanin in the skin. Secondly, glabridin can inhibit two proteins required in the process of melanin formation, thus blocking the enzymatic reaction to reduce the effect of melanin synthesis. Thirdly, glabridin can act as an endothelin antagonist to reduce the regulation of endothelin on the proliferation of melanocytes, thus reducing melanin production and achieving skin whitening effect.
Glabridin is currently a whitening ingredient with good curative effects and comprehensive functions, with good safety. However, due to the poor water solubility and low transdermal absorption, it is not possible to add a large amount of glabridin into cosmetics, which affects its efficacy.
In order to solve the above shortcomings of glabridin, Plamed developed PMWhite® Glabridin300 and conducted a test. The test compared the transdermal penetration ability of PMWhite® Glabridin300 and water-soluble glabridin on the market. The experimental data showed that the cumulative permeation volume of PMWhite® Glabridin300 within 8 hours is 3.1 times that of ordinary water-soluble glabridin.
This means that the bioavailability of PMWhite® Glabridin300 independently developed by Plamed is 3.1 times that of ordinary water-soluble glabridin, which can greatly reduce the user’s cost.
The apparent color of the skin model was significantly whiter after 0.003% PMWhite® Glabridin300 treatment compared to the NC group.
The apparent lightness (L* value) of 0.003% PMWhite® Glabridin300 was significantly enhanced by 16.5% compared to the NC group.
The melanin particles were significantly reduced after 0.003% PMWhite® Glabridin300 treatment compared to the NC group.
The recommended dosage of PMWhite® Glabridin300 is from 0.1% to 2%.
Through the stability test, it is found that the PMWhite® Glabridin300 is very easy to change color under alkaline conditions and has good stability under acidic conditions. However, when the pH is less than or equal to 5, trace substances will be precipitated. In creams, it is recommended to use PH≤6; in products such as lotions, essences, etc., it is recommended to use PH 5-6; it is not recommended to use in alkaline systems.
Figure. Different pH value of PMWhite® Glabridin300 water solution
PMWhite® Glabridin300 is generally applied in skincare products, including cream, facial mask, lotion, toner, serum, as well as emulsion. The following chart is the application examples in major cosmetic brands around the world.
| Country | Brand | Product |
| China | Grain Rain | Glabridin Brightening Essence,
Repair Pure Essence |
| LUCENBASE | Energizing Repair Cleanser | |
| FACE LIVE | Glycyrrhiza Glabra Astaxanthin Essence | |
| Japan | FREEPLUS | UV Day Protector A |
| Shiseido | Vital Perfection Intensive Wrinkle Spot Treatment | |
| France | Helena Rubinstein | Life Pearl Cellular |
| Lancome | Clarifique Pore Refining Cleansing Foam | |
| Chanel | Sublimage | |
| USA | La Mer | The Eye Concentrate |
| Arbuderm | Strength Bleaching Cream | |
| Korea | Paparecipe | Bombee Honey Mask |
| Dr. Jart + | Dermask Water Jet Vital Hydra Solution | |
| Shangpree | Phyto Essence UV Sunscreen | |
| Morocco | Lancaster | Sun Perfect Infinite Glow Illuminating Cream SPF50 |
Whitening Cream
| Phase | Ingredient | Content/% |
| A | Deionized water | Add to 100 |
| Cappo | 0.2 | |
| EDTA-2Na | 0.05 | |
| Glycerin | 3 | |
| Chondrus Crispus (Carrageenan) Extract | 0.05 | |
| Glycereth-26 | 1 | |
| PMSoothe® 9728 | 0.5 | |
| Portulaca Oleracea Extract | 0.5 | |
| B | M68 | 2 |
| A170 | 1 | |
| Ethanol | 1 | |
| Shea Butter | 0.5 | |
| Tocopherol | 1 | |
| NN | 3 | |
| Dimethicone | 2 | |
| Squalane | 6 | |
| C | TEA | 0.2 |
| D | EG | 0.3 |
| E | PMWhite® Glabridin300 | 1.00 |
| Water | 2.00 | |
| F | Phloretin | 0.50 |
| Butanediol | 2.00 | |
| G | Hexanediol | 0.5 |
| Butanediol | 2 |
Preparation process:
Storage: Stored in a cool dry place and away from direct sunlight and oxidizing agents.
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