Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is synthesized from vitamin C. The following are two common synthetic methods:

Vitamin C has four hydroxyl groups in its structure. It cannot be directly absorbed by skin; and it is easily oxidized to cause discoloration. As a whitening agent, it is limited in use of cosmetics. Vitamin C ethyl ether is prepared by 3-hydroxyl hydrocarbylation:

It is a vitamin C derivative that does not change color; and it does not affect its biological activity.

Compared with other vitamin C derivatives, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid has advantages in solubility and pH stability, as shown in the following tables:

Comparison of vitamin C content and solubility

As can be seen from the above table, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid has the highest vitamin C content, and has the smallest molecular weight. It is more favorable to be absorbed by skin.

Comparison of pH stability

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a relatively acidic substance compared to other vitamin C derivatives. It is more suitable for human skin property.

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is easily decomposed by enzymes after being absorbed by skin. Thereby it plays the role of vitamin C in skin care:

• Anti-aging

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is effective against free radicals. It can resist damage caused by UVA and UVB. Ethyl Ascorbic Acid prevents skin cells from aging and damage. It can help body to reduce the harmful free radicals produced by metabolism, and effectively fight free radicals.

• Skin-whitening

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid directly can reduce melanin to colorless reduced melanin. Then it exerts effect of whitening skin and lightening spots. It is also capable of reducing o-quinone by its own antioxidant activity; and it inhibits catalase activity to achieve the effect of inhibiting melanin formation.

• Anti-inflammatory

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid promotes the synthesis and repair of collagen. It is effective against carbonation and saccharification. Thus it significantly resists inflammation on skin surface.

• Promote collagen synthesis

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid has the activity of repairing collagen (including repairing the composition and synthesis of collagen). It can promote formation of skin cells and synthesis of collagen according to the ratio of skin cells and collagen consumption. Therefore, it makes skin shiny and elastic.

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is widely used in whitening and anti-aging skin care products, such as lotion, cream, toner, mask, essence, etc. The recommended dosage in cosmetics is 0.5-3%.

Note:

• When pH value of Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is 3.0-6.0, the whitening and freckling effect is the best.

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid application cases in major cosmetic brands in the world:

• Sunscreen facial mask fluid

Preparation method：

1. Mix and dissolve ginseng extract, scutellaria baicalensis extract, and liquorice extract for 10-24 hours to obtain solution A.
2. Mix propylene glycol with 1,2-butanediol to obtain solution B.
3. Add hyaluronic acid oligomer, macromolecular hyaluronic acid, synthetic egg white powder, aloe extract, ethyl ascorbic acid to solution B. Disperse and mix by homogenizer to obtain solution C; dispersion speed of homogenizer is 10000 rpm; and for three times, each time is 5 seconds.
4. Dissolve kojic acid, nano titanium dioxide, and raspberry ketone glucoside in one-third of water solution to obtain solution D.
5. Add solution A to solution C, then add solution D, then add glycerin and the rest water to stir and dissolve. Stir in a homogenizer; disperse speed is 10,000 rpm. For three times, each time for 3 seconds. Then mask liquid is obtained.

• Anti-aging emulsion

Preparation method：

1. The oil phase ingredients are heated to 70-90°C; stir and dissolve, and pressurize 0.1-10 MPa.
2. The water phase ingredients are heated to 70-90°C; stir to dissolve, and pressurize 0.1-10Mpa.
3. Inject the water phase into the oil phase mixture; homogenize for 3-5 minutes, then stir for 15 to 45 minutes. Release the pressure, and cool down to 45°C, and then add arginine, solomonseal rhizome P.E, benincasae semen P.E., and stir evenly.

• Whitening essence

Preparation method：

The phase A is heated to 85°C. Stir until completely dissolve, and cool down to below 45°C. Then add phase B. After dissolving completely, stop stirring. And then obtain the essence.

• ·The CIR Expert Panel has experimentally concluded that Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is safe for use in cosmetics;
• ·In 2010, the Department of Health announced that ethyl ascorbic acid is a whitening ingredient that can be added to cosmetics. The dosage limit is 1-2%.

Package: Packed in 25kg paper drums with two plastic bags inside.

Storage: Stored in a cool dry place and away from direct sunlight and oxidizing agents.

Plamed focuses on natural cosmetic ingredients for more than 10 years. We have founded four subsidiary companies, which respectively develops different kinds of cosmetic raw material. Plamed is a company whose CEO is designated as the first secretary general of Shaanxi Plant Extraction Association.