PCR® Supermolecule Escin for Anti-Redness Skincare

Horse Chestnut Seed — Origin, Botany and Sourcing

Horse chestnut (Aesculus chinensis Bunge) is a deciduous tree of the Sapindaceae family, also known as the conker tree. Its seed is roughly spherical and chestnut-brown, and is rich in saponins — predominantly escin — together with fatty oil, crude protein, fibre and starch. Horse chestnut has a long history of use in traditional Chinese medicine; today the seed is used mainly as a cosmetic raw material.
The escin in PCR® Supermolecule Escin is derived from the fruits of Aesculus chinensis Bunge. Premium horse chestnut sourced from Hanzhong, Shaanxi, China is selected as the starting material to ensure traceability and premium quality. Origin documentation is available on request.

Horse Chestnut Extract Benefits for Skin

Standardized escin is usually difficult to dissolve and can be dark in color, which historically limited horse chestnut extract benefits in clear and light-colored skin care. In its supramolecular, water-soluble form, escin can be used in aqueous systems, serums, essences, eye products and light lotions, not only in emulsions.

Mechanism and Function of PCR® Supermolecule Escin

Anti-osmotic

In vitro experiments demon strated that incubation with escin strongly inhibited the activity of hyaluronidase, which degrades hyaluronic acid, the main component of the capillary extravascular matrix. Recovery of components such as hyaluronic acid may reduce leakage of plasma from endothelium and may help to explain the effect of escin on edema.

Figure. The mode of action of escin

The test results showed that when the concentration of escin was 0.25mM, the inhibitory effect on hyaluronidase reached more than 90%.  At the same concentration, escin had better inhibition effect on hyaluronidase, and the effective concentration was lower.

The efficacy of 1% escin+5% DEAS gel versus a placebo gel was compared in patients with stages 2 and 3 saphenous vein varices in a randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blind, clinical study. As can be seen from the figure, the anti-edema effect of escin preparation was significantly better than that of the placebo group, and the edema symptoms of most people who applied it were significantly relieved after 2 weeks.

Figure. Changes in (A) heaviness in the legs (B) and swelling in the evening symptom scores after topical application of escin-based gel or placebo in patients with saphenous vein varices

Anti-inflammation

Escin can reduce the levels of inflammatory factors TNF-α, IL- 1β and PGE2. It also achieves anti-inflammatory effects by up-regulating the expression of the glucocorticoid receptor (GR) and by inhibiting the expression of GR-related signalling molecules such as NF-κB and AP-1.

Among them, pro-inflammatory cytokines activate endothelial cells, leading to increased vascular permeability in injured tissues, resulting in capillary leakage and vasodilation, causing skin redness, inflammation and other injuries. Therefore, reducing the level of inflammatory factors can also achieve the effect of anti-redness.

It has been proved that escin can relieve the foot swelling, ear swelling, capillary permeability and cotton ball granuloma in rats, and has a good anti-inflammatory and anti-edema effect.

Figure. Anti-inflammatory effects of escin in vivo.

Model: the group treated with blank gel; Dex: the reference drug group treated with Dexamethasone acetate cream. *P < 0.05 and **P < 0.01 vs model group

The below figure shows that escin can effectively up-regulate the expression of glucocorticoid receptor (GR) in rat paw tissues and dorsal skin, by up-regulating glucocorticoid receptor, thus achieving anti-inflammatory effect.

Figure. Effects of escin on protein expression of GR in inflammatory tissues.

#P < 0.05 vs normal control, *P < 0.05 and **P < 0.01 vs model control

Inhibit telangiectasia

Recent pharmacological studies have confirmed that escin has the effect of resisting inflammation and exudation, increasing venous tone and improving microcirculation, and its effect of promoting venous and microvascular blood circulation is most prominent. Escin promotes blood circulation and maintains the normal function of venous blood vessel walls, and is often used to improve the redness and swelling of varicose veins and acute contusions. In addition, escin repair dressing is both soothing and moisturising, and is able to counteract skin sensitivity, inhibit capillary inflammatory reactions, and avoid vascular damage caused by acute inflammation.

The total effective rate of using epidermal nutrient solution and escins repair dressings in the treatment of telangiectasia was 94.74%, and the recurrence rate was 16.67%, which was significantly lower than the recurrence rate of 40% in laser treatment alone, and the recurrence rate decreased by 58.3%.

Technology: Why Water-Soluble Escin

Supramolecular water-solubility support

PCR® Supermolecule Escin is white to off-white color. Plamed uses the Supramolecular capture technology and decolorization technology to solve the problem of deep color of escin, so that its water solution is clarified and transparent.

Conventional escin is difficult to dissolve and is often dark in color, which limits its use in clear, light-colored systems. PCR® Supermolecule Escin uses hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin as part of a Supramolecular formulation approach that supports the water solubility and formulation usability of escin in aqueous and water-based cosmetic systems.

Escin-based botanical active

The horse chestnut seed extract provides a standardized escin active for cosmetic formulation development, with application directions including eye-area care, redness-appearance care and skin comfort. Escin is derived from the fruits of Aesculus chinensis Bunge.

Stability and pH

Stability data shows that the ingredient remains relatively stable within a pH range of 4 to 6, retaining stability at pH 4 for up to one year. Solutions at different pH remain transparent and colorless, and product stability has been confirmed after one month at low (4 °C), normal (20–30 °C) and high (45 °C) temperatures.

Escin in Skin Care — Applications, Formats and Dosage

Applications

As consumer demand for natural skincare ingredients continues to grow, escin is gaining recognition in skincare formulations. With its light color, good water solubility and clear-solution properties, PCR® Supermolecule Escin is a versatile botanical active for skin comfort and the appearance of redness, suitable for eye-area, facial, body and leg care products. For brands and formulators seeking wholesale horse chestnut seed extract, it offers a formulation-focused option for natural skincare development.

Recommended dosage

The recommended use level is 0.1%–2.0%, depending on formulation type and intended application. Formulation guidance is available on request.

Formulation tip

PCR® Supermolecule Escin dissolves in water at room temperature: a 3% aqueous solution clears after about five minutes of simple stirring, with no heating or ultrasound required.

Buying Horse Chestnut Seed Extract: Supplier, Packaging and Sampling

Plamed Green Science Group manufactures PCR® Supermolecule Escin and supplies it worldwide, subject to destination-specific regulatory, import, documentation and shipping requirements. If you are comparing horse chestnut seed extract suppliers, or looking to buy horse chestnut seed extract in development or wholesale quantities, these are the specifications worth checking first.

Available Document of PCR® Supermolecule Escin

• Technical Data Sheet (TDS)

• Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS)

• Technical Specification

• Safety Data Sheet

• Certificate of Analysis

• Stability Support Documentation

• Method of Analysis

• Composition Breakdown Statement

• Source Origin Statement

• Vegan and Non-animal Statement

• Application Formulations

• Manufacturing Flow Chart

• Technical and Market-Compliance Support Documents

• Efficacy and Application Reports

Minimum order quantity 1 kg.

Packaging: 1 kg aluminum foil bags, or 25 kg paper drums with two inner plastic bags. Evaluation samples are available so formulators can screen horse chestnut seed extract powder in their own base before scale-up.

Storage: stored in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and oxidizing agents. Shelf life 36 months when stored properly.

Technical Data Sheet of PCR® Supermolecule Escin

Compliance and Documentation

PCR® Supermolecule Escin is supplied with supporting information for ingredient identity, composition, quality specifications, safety, formulation use and relevant product attributes. Regulatory assessment should be completed for the finished cosmetic product and the target market.

Q：Where is the origin of the raw material for PCR® Supermolecule Escin?

A: Premium horse chestnut sourced from Hanzhong, Shaanxi, China. The selected horse chestnut seed extract for sale serves as the starting material, supporting raw material traceability and consistent quality.

Q：How soluble is PCR® Supermolecule Escin in water?

A: PCR® Supermolecule Escin exhibits excellent solubility. When preparing a 3% aqueous solution, simply stir at room temperature for about 5 minutes to achieve complete dissolution and clarity. No supplemental high-temperature heating or ultrasonic assistance is needed.

Q：What causes minor precipitation in the aqueous solution after being left for one year?

A: Long-term precipitation is mainly attributed to two factors:

First, as time goes by, the internal supramolecular inclusion balance shifts slowly, causing aggregates to form;

Second, the glycosidic bonds of escin may undergo gradual micro-hydrolysis over time, leading to precipitation (Note: Comprehensive stability testing for new batches, including content and pH monitoring, is currently underway).

Q：What is the optimal effective pH range for this raw material?

A: Stability data shows that the ingredient remains relatively stable within a pH range of 4 to 6 (retaining stability at pH 4 for up to one year). Significant deviations from this pH range may induce minor precipitation upon prolonged storage.

Q：What type of formulation base was utilized in the in vivo efficacy test report?

A: The evaluation was conducted using samples specifically designed based on an eye cream formula, though this base formula has not undergone commercial optimization. We can provide this base formula to clients as a benchmarking reference for subsequent testing and refinement.

Q：To further enhance the skin penetration of this ingredient for repair skin barrier, what penetration carriers are recommended in the formulation?

A: Formulators can select from the following three categories of common penetration enhancers:

Chemical Enhancers: Ethanol, glycols (propanediol/butanediol), fatty acids (oleic acid), surfactants, azone, DMI, etc.

Natural Enhancers: Mint derivatives (menthol), eugenol, inositol, eucalyptus oil, terpenes, tetrahydropiperine (THP), etc.

Biological Enhancers: Penetration peptides (offering high biocompatibility, enabling efficient transport of large molecules across biological membranes at low dosages).

Q：If I plan to conduct efficacy testing for the sample, should I test the raw material aqueous solution directly or add it to the basic formula?

A: It depends on your testing objective: For rapid screening of anti-irritation or soothing properties, the raw aqueous solution can be tested directly. However, to verify long-term efficacy such as dark circle reduction, it is highly recommended to incorporate it into a stable base formulation before conducting clinical or in vitro trials.